Cattle dogs are smart...and stubborn. Benji loves to pull on the leash and basically nothing I do stops him from pulling! The much-praised book I have "The Art of Raising a Puppy" tells me to turn around and walk the other. Not only do I look ridiculous in public doing this, but it doesn't work! I find that book a load of bullshit anyways. Sometimes I just stand still and make him do "Sit." I also do this when he jumps at me in the park. But...he doesn't do "sit" outside, only inside.
Of course, this infuriates me. As does his biting. He likes to jump up and bite the hand. We got him a muzzle but he only wears it in the house to prohibit barking (probably for 30 minutes at the most). It's a soft, mesh muzzle. I hate it when he bites and jumps. I think it is dangerous and his WORST behaviour. I immediately left the dog park and went home. He has not had a good day by any means.
We have been working on so many things with him like leaving him in the house alone (successful with muzzle) and "stay" but I haven't found a measure that works when it comes to 'no jumping" and "no biting". He also barks and nothing helps. So, we need a muzzle. I'm looking forward to his obedience classes he is starting in April. I think the trainer can help correct a lot of these behaviours since he obviously has a lot more experience than me with dogs. I just hope he can correct his biting, jumping, barking and leash-pulling and teach him recall! If he does that--I can handle the rest!
Benji was switched on Orijen Puppy Food (from Royal Canin) and it's said to be a MUCH more superior food. The #1 dog food in Canada, apparently. I'm glad it's more nutritious for Benji. But the kibble is WAY too hard and he's been very gassy. His gas is enough to kill a large cow, I'm sure. It stinks! And his poop stinks too. He is still getting used to Orijen so I hope after a month or two, he isn't as gassy and his fur will shine and look great!
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Cattle Dogs are Just Different
A lot of online websites with ACD dog owners telling me their tales helps me realize my Australian cattle dog is normal and his behaviour is the regular behaviour of a ACD puppy. It is a HUGE relief to find out I'm on the right track and I'm not a hopeless dog owner. My dog breed is known for biting, barking and jumping and there isn't much I can do about it except give him commands. He is going to do it, and I just have to deter him.
Is there such thing as a well-behaved ACD dog? I don't know....I know if you work them hard enough and their exhausted their good for a time...:)
But I'm not giving up on Benji just because of his dog breed. It's going to take a lot more than that! I am glad to find that reading herding dog specific training helps me find methods to deal with him, train him and spend money on things that keep him stimulated mentally and physically.
Is there such thing as a well-behaved ACD dog? I don't know....I know if you work them hard enough and their exhausted their good for a time...:)
But I'm not giving up on Benji just because of his dog breed. It's going to take a lot more than that! I am glad to find that reading herding dog specific training helps me find methods to deal with him, train him and spend money on things that keep him stimulated mentally and physically.
A Tired Dog is a Good Dog
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| BENJI TRYING TO FIND SOMETHING TO PUT IN HIS MOUTH, AS USUAL. |
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| BENJI RED FUR GETTING LIGHTER |
And strangely enough, he's getting cuter as he gets older. His fur has lightened to white and red. When he was 7 weeks old, he had dark brown, red and white fur. Well most of the brown has disappeared and his fur is getting longer and silkier!
With 2 daily 20-40 minute walks every day, managing my 10 week old cattle dog has been easier. MUCH easier. Now with sunshine and warmer weather, it's actually become pleasant! I have yet to work on his separation anxiety and my annoying neighbours are very rigid about his barking...sending me text messages instantaneously....but I like to look at it from the positive: I have a house trained, cute puppy!
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| BENJI IN THE BACKYARD, EXPLORING. 10 WEEKS OLD. |
Monday, March 14, 2011
Cattle dog in the City
I take it into offense when websites say cattle dogs should not live in the city. It means all city people cannot adequately provide a proper lifestyle for the busy, intelligent breed which I think is incorrect. You don't need to live in the suburbs or in a rural part of town for working breed, high-energy dogs. There are large scores of these dogs living in the city happily.
Why? Because perhaps these websites don't realize people in the city aren't all couch potatoes. They go jogging in the morning and or at night, they live near expansive parks with lots of green space and a ravine or a nice path. They like to spend their time hiking, fishing, camping, skiing, snowboarding--and can bring their dog along. Sure, their might not be a large hill to run up on in the farm but the city offers a lot of wonderful green space for dogs and active dog owners.
In my city alone, there is the largest park High Park (with free parking!) and I'm only about 10 minutes away by car, and a whopping 399 acres. There is the beautiful West Ravine nature trail with hilly paths and trees and dirt galore (and a nice river!). Plus, it's off the beaten path so it's quiet and serene. The Rouge Valley Park has a lot of scenic wildlife that is rare to see in an urban setting and is one of the largest parks in North America. They have rare birds, foxes, coyotes, geese and swan and hiking trails. There is dozens more but these are some of Toronto's great green spaces that honestly, feel like you're in a jungle--not a city.
And furthermore, just because somebody lives in a city doesn't mean they do not leave the city. What about winter skiing and snowboarding? And summer camping? From May 24 (Victoria Day) onward, we are camping! We have our equipment and I know Benji is going to love up North where he can run around, swim and be free. So with regular trips up North and in humungous city green spots which a dog can access every DAY....why wouldn't a dog be suited for city life? Not to mention I live near 5 smaller parks, two of them dog parks with fenced in dog areas and live in a quiet residential area in the city---not a loud area with lots of people and cars. I think Benji loves being here and is suitable to life here, and that websites should taken into consideration the fact many cities have tons of green space, hiking trails and if you live near one, your dog should be well-exercised and happy! So when he returns home, he's ready to rest at his owner's feet and play fetch!
Why? Because perhaps these websites don't realize people in the city aren't all couch potatoes. They go jogging in the morning and or at night, they live near expansive parks with lots of green space and a ravine or a nice path. They like to spend their time hiking, fishing, camping, skiing, snowboarding--and can bring their dog along. Sure, their might not be a large hill to run up on in the farm but the city offers a lot of wonderful green space for dogs and active dog owners.
In my city alone, there is the largest park High Park (with free parking!) and I'm only about 10 minutes away by car, and a whopping 399 acres. There is the beautiful West Ravine nature trail with hilly paths and trees and dirt galore (and a nice river!). Plus, it's off the beaten path so it's quiet and serene. The Rouge Valley Park has a lot of scenic wildlife that is rare to see in an urban setting and is one of the largest parks in North America. They have rare birds, foxes, coyotes, geese and swan and hiking trails. There is dozens more but these are some of Toronto's great green spaces that honestly, feel like you're in a jungle--not a city.
Friday, March 11, 2011
Benji, Apartment Cattle Dog
A red heeler in an apartment is not an easy feat. We live in an apartment that is part of a house so we have the backyard and luckily don't need to fly down a whole bunch of stairs every time he needs to go eliminate. Still, our living quarters is small--under 700 square feet and that poses some issues with an energetic, working herding dog. And no, Benji is not the calm, sweet exception---he's the rule.
Good thing for Benji and our sanity, we live near 5 parks and I have decided he will need 3 hours of exercise a day to cope with living in a small space plus a "job" like agility when he is 6 months old. Until then, 2 walks a day should suffice plus "fetch". Benji is a serious barker and his bark is unusually high pitched and extremely loud. At only 10 weeks, he sounds like any full grown retriever in the neighbourhood! I have a devilish alpha dog and keeping him in an apartment won't be easy but I will try it.
I'm pretty sure Benji could and would easily ruin everything in the apartment including the walls, sofa, chairs, TV and tables. While he's a puppy, my solution is to spray Bitter Apple on alll the furniture where he usually chews and the sides of walls he's bitten. When he's older and trained, he'll be allowed to be in the house for say, 40 minutes, while we grocery shop with a muzzle on so he is unable to destroy everything but still enjoy freedom.
I don't crate Benji much. He is in the crate while I sweep and mop, while he sleeps at night (which helps with house training him) and when he does something bad or he won't stop jumping while we're eating. Unless, he's sleeping, he's in his crate for up to a half hour. He usualy sleeps for 6-8 hours straight and wakes up between 4:30-5:00am. The crate is wonderful but he's not a "Crate" dog. I hope exercising him will help calm him down a lot.
Unfortunately, i cannot show any love to Benji. Everything I do has to be a command to be answered to immediately---from fetch, to eating, to eliminating, to getting a treat. NO KISSES, COOING OR PETTING. Benji takes this as a sign of weakness and manipulates you immediately.
I have no solution to his barking problem or his biting problem Telling him "no", holding his snout and leaving him alone does not help. When I return, he WILL bite, and if I leave to another room, he WILL continue barking. I need new solutions to the B&B problem.
1. How can I get my puppy to stop barking excessively?
2. How can I get my puppy to stop barking excessively when nobody is home?
3. How can I get my puppy to stop biting me aggressively?
4. How can I get my puppy to stop nipping me playfully when I show/tell him "no"?
Seriously, a little puppy shouldn't be so difficult to train. Tomorrow is a new day and I'm going to do two things.
Number one: puppyproof the house (and buy Bitter Apple). This helps eliminate a lot of stress.
Number two: leave him alone in the house and get him to be used to it.
I won't show him any affection tomorrow. It's all "alpha dog". I am not going to show any emotion, raise my voice, reprimand him or anything. I will just prevent him from doing the behaviours that I want to discourage. For jumping on furniture and us, I will leash him to a chair away from us. This way he cannot bite either. I won't even tell him "No jumping" or "Off" which I usually do and then shove him off after he ignores me.. I will simply tie him up, all business-like no anger, no frustration, no eye contact. He will work for his toys--if he wants a toy, he will have to sit/stay. If he wants food, he will have to do a proper down. If he wants to go outside, he will have to sit at the door and wait until I go through the doorway first--each and every time. I guess it's my fault for slacking.
Has anyone else had a difficult puppy to train?
Good thing for Benji and our sanity, we live near 5 parks and I have decided he will need 3 hours of exercise a day to cope with living in a small space plus a "job" like agility when he is 6 months old. Until then, 2 walks a day should suffice plus "fetch". Benji is a serious barker and his bark is unusually high pitched and extremely loud. At only 10 weeks, he sounds like any full grown retriever in the neighbourhood! I have a devilish alpha dog and keeping him in an apartment won't be easy but I will try it.
I'm pretty sure Benji could and would easily ruin everything in the apartment including the walls, sofa, chairs, TV and tables. While he's a puppy, my solution is to spray Bitter Apple on alll the furniture where he usually chews and the sides of walls he's bitten. When he's older and trained, he'll be allowed to be in the house for say, 40 minutes, while we grocery shop with a muzzle on so he is unable to destroy everything but still enjoy freedom.
I don't crate Benji much. He is in the crate while I sweep and mop, while he sleeps at night (which helps with house training him) and when he does something bad or he won't stop jumping while we're eating. Unless, he's sleeping, he's in his crate for up to a half hour. He usualy sleeps for 6-8 hours straight and wakes up between 4:30-5:00am. The crate is wonderful but he's not a "Crate" dog. I hope exercising him will help calm him down a lot.
Unfortunately, i cannot show any love to Benji. Everything I do has to be a command to be answered to immediately---from fetch, to eating, to eliminating, to getting a treat. NO KISSES, COOING OR PETTING. Benji takes this as a sign of weakness and manipulates you immediately.
I have no solution to his barking problem or his biting problem Telling him "no", holding his snout and leaving him alone does not help. When I return, he WILL bite, and if I leave to another room, he WILL continue barking. I need new solutions to the B&B problem.
1. How can I get my puppy to stop barking excessively?
2. How can I get my puppy to stop barking excessively when nobody is home?
3. How can I get my puppy to stop biting me aggressively?
4. How can I get my puppy to stop nipping me playfully when I show/tell him "no"?
Seriously, a little puppy shouldn't be so difficult to train. Tomorrow is a new day and I'm going to do two things.
Number one: puppyproof the house (and buy Bitter Apple). This helps eliminate a lot of stress.
Number two: leave him alone in the house and get him to be used to it.
I won't show him any affection tomorrow. It's all "alpha dog". I am not going to show any emotion, raise my voice, reprimand him or anything. I will just prevent him from doing the behaviours that I want to discourage. For jumping on furniture and us, I will leash him to a chair away from us. This way he cannot bite either. I won't even tell him "No jumping" or "Off" which I usually do and then shove him off after he ignores me.. I will simply tie him up, all business-like no anger, no frustration, no eye contact. He will work for his toys--if he wants a toy, he will have to sit/stay. If he wants food, he will have to do a proper down. If he wants to go outside, he will have to sit at the door and wait until I go through the doorway first--each and every time. I guess it's my fault for slacking.
Has anyone else had a difficult puppy to train?
Puppy Proofing the Apartment
My puppy gets into everything--shoes, stain remover powder, garbage--you name it and he'll shred it, eat it or chew it. I realized I never even bothered to puppy-proof the house before we got Benji so if he is finding things and ruining them (like our boots) then it's my fault. I should have a lid on all garbages and keep the shoes out of sight and it'll be easier to manage him. And above all--never let the dog out of my sight!
.
* 1
Unplug or wrap up electrical cords that are exposed. Move lighting around so that the cord is running behind a piece of furniture that the puppy cannot get to. Where there is a lot of cords such as your television or computer, either block access to the cords or duct tape the cords out of reach. Also, you can use a ceramic planter to put the excess cord inside of and to block access to the plug going into the wall.
* 2
Remove throw rugs that have fringe. It is better just to remove the rug for awhile until the puppy gets older.
* 3
Get in a habit of putting your shoes out of reach. If a shoe does get chewed, do not just give it to the puppy as they cannot tell the difference between a shoe they can chew and one they cannot. It's better to make all shoes off limits.
* 4
Use Bitter Apple spray on furniture legs, woodwork and other immovable items to keep the puppy from chewing on them.
* 5
Close doors or install a baby gate to keep the puppy out of rooms that they don't need to be in. This can include your child's room as they will chew and possible swallow children's toys and crayons.
* 6
Install baby gates on the bottom and tops of stairs (if the puppy goes upstairs with you.)
* 7
Check your back yard for any dangerous plants (check with your vet for a list) that the puppy may chew and any holes in your fence that the puppy could get through.
* 8
Keep your puppy away from a location where you have used fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides for 48 hours.
* 9
Keep your garbage can locked up or up off the floor, or purchase a heavy duty one. A puppy will be attracted to the smell and if they manage to knock it over will chew or swallow what was in the garbage.
* 10
Keep hamsters or other small caged animals off of the floor until the puppy gets older.
* 11
Remove tablecloths and runners as a quick pull on one of these can bring everything from the table down on your puppy. Also, check any long cords from window shades that a puppy may be able to reach.
* 12
Use a baby latch on your bottom cubbards, particularly any that may have cleaning products or just temporarily remove the products.
Read more: How to Puppy Proof your Home | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2321033_puppy-proof-home.html#ixzz1GGw66C7W
.
* 1
Unplug or wrap up electrical cords that are exposed. Move lighting around so that the cord is running behind a piece of furniture that the puppy cannot get to. Where there is a lot of cords such as your television or computer, either block access to the cords or duct tape the cords out of reach. Also, you can use a ceramic planter to put the excess cord inside of and to block access to the plug going into the wall.
* 2
Remove throw rugs that have fringe. It is better just to remove the rug for awhile until the puppy gets older.
* 3
Get in a habit of putting your shoes out of reach. If a shoe does get chewed, do not just give it to the puppy as they cannot tell the difference between a shoe they can chew and one they cannot. It's better to make all shoes off limits.
* 4
Use Bitter Apple spray on furniture legs, woodwork and other immovable items to keep the puppy from chewing on them.
* 5
Close doors or install a baby gate to keep the puppy out of rooms that they don't need to be in. This can include your child's room as they will chew and possible swallow children's toys and crayons.
* 6
Install baby gates on the bottom and tops of stairs (if the puppy goes upstairs with you.)
* 7
Check your back yard for any dangerous plants (check with your vet for a list) that the puppy may chew and any holes in your fence that the puppy could get through.
* 8
Keep your puppy away from a location where you have used fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides for 48 hours.
* 9
Keep your garbage can locked up or up off the floor, or purchase a heavy duty one. A puppy will be attracted to the smell and if they manage to knock it over will chew or swallow what was in the garbage.
* 10
Keep hamsters or other small caged animals off of the floor until the puppy gets older.
* 11
Remove tablecloths and runners as a quick pull on one of these can bring everything from the table down on your puppy. Also, check any long cords from window shades that a puppy may be able to reach.
* 12
Use a baby latch on your bottom cubbards, particularly any that may have cleaning products or just temporarily remove the products.
Read more: How to Puppy Proof your Home | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2321033_puppy-proof-home.html#ixzz1GGw66C7W
Help! My Dog Bit Me!
My 10 week old puppy’s behaviour hit like a tornado. Everything seemed to be going well. The exercise, the tricks he learnt, house-training. So where did this aggressive behaviour crop up from? His “temperament” said he might be aggressive towards dogs—not his owners! So why is my dog biting me aggressively? No, it’s not scary because he’s a puppy but it sure hurts and seeing him snarl and use all his strength to bite me—and injure me—is not a good thing. I am confused and upset, mostly because I feel it’s my fault. What information am I following that is incorrect? What am I doing wrong?
It isn’t like I have a Rottweiler or something. Benji is not meant to be so vicious. Yes, he’s a tough dog. He’s a cattle dog. But he’s not supposed to bite me and act aggressively. I thought I was doing all the things to make him “submissive” and know his rank like: making him sit and do “down” before his meals, walking in the door before him and making sure he doesn’t walk ahead of me on leash. I don’t give him human food, I don’t let him on the couch or bed and I don’t allow him to nip me—even playfully. I guess training Benji is going to be a whole new dilemma. I’m not giving up on him—no matter how much time, money and effort it costs me. I know he’s a good, smart dog inside and he just needs a strong, patient alpha dog. I have SO MUCH behaviours to correct, I really feel overwhelmed. Like his super loud barking when nobody is home. Even the neighbours are beginning to complain! I’m pretty miserable. But a lot of people have been able to turn aggressive, vicious and abused dogs into pets so I should be able to turn an impressionable puppy into a pet too!
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Aggressive Behaviour
Benji has shown aggressive behaviour such as snarling and biting me and growling. I feel I need to take this up with a professional puppy trainer. For now, I have tied a leash around my waist so he cannot go and cause trouble. He has taken some steps backwards--
--scratching the life out of my expensive XBOX 360 game disc
--pulling down a full garbage which took quite a while to clean up
--excessive barking.
Since the weather is horrid, I cannot take him for walks. It is snowing like crazy. Luckily he had his shots yesterday (and deworming done) so he can go to a park when the weather clears up and run around. A tired puppy is a good puppy.
--scratching the life out of my expensive XBOX 360 game disc
--pulling down a full garbage which took quite a while to clean up
--excessive barking.
Since the weather is horrid, I cannot take him for walks. It is snowing like crazy. Luckily he had his shots yesterday (and deworming done) so he can go to a park when the weather clears up and run around. A tired puppy is a good puppy.
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Benji has Roundworms
I had to make the beautiful discovery of a huge 8" roundworm in his poop this morning. Besides nearly vomiting, I was afraid because I had no idea about dog worms and parasites. I spent so much time reading on how to train my darn puppy, I forgot about his health so after having a freakfest with my partner I went to Google and realized he had roundworm and this is the trickiest to remove and needs to be treated ASAP. Luckily I got one of those nasty suckers in a poop bag and can bring it to the vet for analysis. Hopefully they get him de-wormed and on some meds to flush out all those gross worms, larvae and eggshells! Poor Benji!
Calmer, Tamer Dog
Thanks to a lot of invaluable information, Benji is getting used to routine and a schedule. Though on MY part, I'm the one who is resistant! He knows when to get up and when to eat breakfast but my eyes are barely open at 5:00am for his "first pee". We generally go to bed around 10pm so he gets a full 8 hours of sleep like the humans.
Like most puppies, some things need work on but he's doing OK. The barking and biting are still there and pretty bad, but the housetraining and obedience is going alright. For example, he now does the "Down" command before every meal and rolls onto his stomach to go outside for a pee (or scratches at the door if I'm not prepared to take him out). Only after scratching at the door and waiting by the front door will he pee in the house. He likes to chew a lot of things that aren't puppy toys so I'm working on getting him puppy toys like the Kong and Buster Ball to keep him busy with treats inside.
He has been a joy and he's growing a lot and looking more beautiful every day with his radiant red fur and brown eyes. When our friend's English bulldog comes over, he tires him right out! My partner thinks we should get a second, small breed dog to tire out Benji. I think it's double the work (and money). But we'll see. Our place is pretty small. I think two dogs will cause a bit of chaos but if it keeps Benji busy.......that is a huge trade off. This dog gets bored quite easily and I don't want to play fetch for 15 hours a day!
Like most puppies, some things need work on but he's doing OK. The barking and biting are still there and pretty bad, but the housetraining and obedience is going alright. For example, he now does the "Down" command before every meal and rolls onto his stomach to go outside for a pee (or scratches at the door if I'm not prepared to take him out). Only after scratching at the door and waiting by the front door will he pee in the house. He likes to chew a lot of things that aren't puppy toys so I'm working on getting him puppy toys like the Kong and Buster Ball to keep him busy with treats inside.
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| BENJI AND HIS ENGLISH BULLDOG FRIEND SHARING A DOG BED |
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Out in the Neighbourhood
After performing the "Down" command correctly three times yesterday, and two times today I rewarded Benji, my 9 week old Border Collie- Red Heeler (Australian Cattle Dog) mix. Yesterday he played fetch for 15 minutes, today he went for a 15 minute stroll on our street off-leash in the early spring sun.
This shows Benji that good behaviour will be rewarded. He has greatly improved his behaviour and housetraining is successful since he lets us know when he needs to relieve himself 95% of the time with a look, scratching at the front door, circling/sniffing in the house or barking that is whiny. I don't mind his barking, but the neighbours do so I do have to get that under control.
I have to thank all the wonderful websites that offer specific information on training Red Heeler dogs such as:
www.essortment.com
www.dogster.com
www.acdog.ru
www.cattledog.com
As well as social networks that unite and promote the admiration and love of these beautifully coloured, intelligent and energetic dogs such as The DogBook on Facebook, "I Love My Red Heeler Cattle Dog" Facebook group, and MyDogSpace which has a cattledog group as well!
This shows Benji that good behaviour will be rewarded. He has greatly improved his behaviour and housetraining is successful since he lets us know when he needs to relieve himself 95% of the time with a look, scratching at the front door, circling/sniffing in the house or barking that is whiny. I don't mind his barking, but the neighbours do so I do have to get that under control.
I have to thank all the wonderful websites that offer specific information on training Red Heeler dogs such as:
www.essortment.com
www.dogster.com
www.acdog.ru
www.cattledog.com
Monday, February 28, 2011
That Moment When...
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| BENJI LEARNING FETCH |
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| BENJI LEARNING/PLAYING FETCH WITH STUFFED DUCK TOY AT 9 WEEKS OLD |
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| BENJI AT ATTENTION IN FETCH |
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| BENJI PAYING ATTENTION |
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| LETTING BENJI PLAY FETCH AFTER SUCCESSFULLY DOING THE "DOWN" COMMAND THREE TIMES IN A ROW! MAMA'S PROUD |
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| BENJI IN HIS FAVOURITE GAME AFTER OBEDIENCE TRAINING FOR FIVE MINUTES |
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| BENJI, 9 WEEKS OLD, RED HEELER (AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOG) MIX LEARNING FETCH! |
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| BENJI BRINGS ME A STUFFED TOY FOR FETCH. |
That Cute Puppy
As much as it seems I just complain about my Border Aussie, I really love him and enjoy him. Like many exasperated owners, it's all about navigating the waters of puppydom and dog ownership (including the advice every animal owner bestows upon you). Some people say you need to be experienced but if you want to enjoy a breed, why not? There is more information in our day and age than ever before, and an army of animal experts who can assist you in making life joyful with pup from your vet, dog trainers and dog walkers.
Benji is enjoyable and a bright, beautiful dog who I look forward to seeing every day and spending time with. I love the array of colours on his fur and smile when people compliment him in public. I love to see him happy, healthy and trained. We do the things we do for our pets because well....what's life without them?
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| BENJI LOOKING UP AT ME WITH THOSE INTELLIGENT EYES |
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| AWKWARD GROWTH PHASE--LONG ARMS/LEGS |
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| MY BENJI BUTTONS. |
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Activities to do with a Working Dog
Some people ask me why I chose a large dog breed over a smaller one, and I tell them because I want to actually do things with a dog. He is my motivation to get out and enjoy nature. Here are some activities that you can include with your dog:
-summer camping : taking your dog into your provincial parks or a campsite and just living in the wild is a great way to let your dog enjoy being a dog, and for you to enjoy nature.
-biking: with the right equipment and some practice, biking with your dog gives both of you exercise and tires out an energetic dog!
-jogging: running with your dog is a great way to bond and keep healthy. And all you need is a leash and collar, it's something you can do every day, following the guidelines.
-swimming: if you're like me, and love the blue sea; then swimming with your canine is a wonderful sport. Dogs love swimming and who doesn't like this refreshing pastime in the summer?
-hiking -talk about great cardio! Not only will the view and fresh air be invigorating, but your dog will enjoy the earth under his paws.
-Frisbee-Of course every dog owner does this with their dog, but still, it's the classic game with dog and man.
-summer camping : taking your dog into your provincial parks or a campsite and just living in the wild is a great way to let your dog enjoy being a dog, and for you to enjoy nature.
-biking: with the right equipment and some practice, biking with your dog gives both of you exercise and tires out an energetic dog!
-jogging: running with your dog is a great way to bond and keep healthy. And all you need is a leash and collar, it's something you can do every day, following the guidelines.
-swimming: if you're like me, and love the blue sea; then swimming with your canine is a wonderful sport. Dogs love swimming and who doesn't like this refreshing pastime in the summer?
-hiking -talk about great cardio! Not only will the view and fresh air be invigorating, but your dog will enjoy the earth under his paws.
-Frisbee-Of course every dog owner does this with their dog, but still, it's the classic game with dog and man.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Getting Things Under Control
The first part of yesterday had me seeing red. I was furious with my dog for not listening to me. Period. I know you need immense patience to deal with puppies but my patience was at its end. And then, I found a way to control my puppy and "assert my dominance" and keep his bad behaviour under control.
I put on his leash and harness in the house. Not only does he absolutely HATE it and calms down and doesn't bark or bite, but he is unable to jump up or bite the furniture because I pull the leash back--physically stopping him from doing so. After one pull, he realizes he is not in control and doesn't even bother to attempt to jump up on the couch. He sits like a good boy with his toy. It was miraculous! It also helps me potty train him. If I see him peeing on the floors, I can pull his leash and stop him and take him outside to remind him to do his business outdoors.
Since he is a working dog and very energetic, when he is older, a muzzle will help him be less harmful in the house alone. He won't be able to chew all the furniture and walls and shoes to bits and pieces or bark like crazy. If anybody has heard a cattle dog bark, they will understand why this is cause for concern. Of course, he is still a puppy and I'm committing to training him 100% but if the muzzle helps erase some problems while we are not there, I do not see what is wrong with using it. It isn't like we are using it for punishment. If we go to the grocery store or somewhere dogs are not allowed, we know he can be trusted home alone outside of his crate as an adult dog without chewing everything to smithereens--thanks to the dog muzzle. And if he chooses to bark, he won't be able too and the neighbours won't complain.
Right now, my job is to make sure he is going outside, he is healthy and he understands basic commands like his name, "come" and "sit". Last night, calm and relaxed, Benji was an enjoyment to his small family. There is hope.
I put on his leash and harness in the house. Not only does he absolutely HATE it and calms down and doesn't bark or bite, but he is unable to jump up or bite the furniture because I pull the leash back--physically stopping him from doing so. After one pull, he realizes he is not in control and doesn't even bother to attempt to jump up on the couch. He sits like a good boy with his toy. It was miraculous! It also helps me potty train him. If I see him peeing on the floors, I can pull his leash and stop him and take him outside to remind him to do his business outdoors.
Since he is a working dog and very energetic, when he is older, a muzzle will help him be less harmful in the house alone. He won't be able to chew all the furniture and walls and shoes to bits and pieces or bark like crazy. If anybody has heard a cattle dog bark, they will understand why this is cause for concern. Of course, he is still a puppy and I'm committing to training him 100% but if the muzzle helps erase some problems while we are not there, I do not see what is wrong with using it. It isn't like we are using it for punishment. If we go to the grocery store or somewhere dogs are not allowed, we know he can be trusted home alone outside of his crate as an adult dog without chewing everything to smithereens--thanks to the dog muzzle. And if he chooses to bark, he won't be able too and the neighbours won't complain.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Stopping Dark Barking
The first lesson we really should learn is to teach our dog their name. I know that sounds crazy, after all we gave the puppy a name and have probably been 'shouting' it for months! Exactly. Imagine repeating a family name, with no reason behind it. The one difference here is that your family member will eventually say "Well what do you want?"
But your dog cannot talk, so hearing his name being called endlessly means nothing to him and they learn to ignore it. So start to command your dog, teach him, call his name, and then direct him. Use sit or come or treat. A reason for his being called.
Once he begins to realise that his name is being used for a reason, training opens up to a lot of possibilities. The barking control can start with the 'come' command. When he is ready, introduce the word quiet.
Of course never forget to reward all training sessions, a treat can work wonders. Do not however expect big changes overnight. Gain his confidence, praise the small progress made day by day. By setting aside a short amount of time every day for training, your dog will come to enjoy his lessons. Treat them as a game.
Before long you will have an animal you can be really proud of and he will truly look up to you as 'Master'.
source: ezinearticle.com
But your dog cannot talk, so hearing his name being called endlessly means nothing to him and they learn to ignore it. So start to command your dog, teach him, call his name, and then direct him. Use sit or come or treat. A reason for his being called.
Once he begins to realise that his name is being used for a reason, training opens up to a lot of possibilities. The barking control can start with the 'come' command. When he is ready, introduce the word quiet.
Of course never forget to reward all training sessions, a treat can work wonders. Do not however expect big changes overnight. Gain his confidence, praise the small progress made day by day. By setting aside a short amount of time every day for training, your dog will come to enjoy his lessons. Treat them as a game.
Before long you will have an animal you can be really proud of and he will truly look up to you as 'Master'.
source: ezinearticle.com
Making Leeway
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| MY BENJI SITTING STILL FOR A PHOTO |
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| ANNOYED WITH HIS COLLAR--WHICH HE HATES. |
-Teach Benji "OFF" command when jumping on couch/eating cords; and praising him when he does jump off. (He responded well today).
-Getting him to "SIT" before meals, going outside to assert my dominance (works well--he did sit both times).
-Teaching him "DOWN" command and "SIT" command with treats.
-Praising him for relieving himself outside.
-Blocking off rooms so he is in my supervision and cannot relieve himself indoors.
-Holding his snout when he tries to bite me with a "No"
-Pinching him and saying "No" when he bites me.
-Using "shaker can" to get him not to jump on furniture.
-Freezing chew toys
I think Benji is finally getting the idea he is in control. I have not gave him much attention today, petted him, picked him up or played with him. I let him play with his toys by himself, I patted him once on the head when he sat still for the photos and praised him minimally after each good deed. While most people think this might not work, it has helped my dog respect me and realize I am a calm, confident Alpha. He hasn't been perfect today, but he's a 9 week old puppy. I don't expect him to be perfect, just to listen, pee/poo outside and play with his toys and not my belongings!
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Dog Jumping
How To Stop Your Dog Jumping
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| Got A Jumping Dog? Put an end to your Dog's Annoying, Excessive Jumping Today! |
Fortunately, it's not too difficult to stop your dog from jumping. With the proper amount of consistent training and know-how, any dog owner can teach his dog to get off people, and stop jumping.
Here are some things you should know:
Reasons Why Dogs Jump
There are three main reasons why dogs jump:1. To assert dominance. Whether it's jumping on people or jumping on furniture, both instances illustrate a dog that wants to raise his station in life. By jumping on you or jumping on the couch, he's saying that he's the pack leader--something that you DON'T want to happen, as a dominant dog is much more difficult to train (and can become quite aggressive). In either case, you'll definitely want to institute the proper alpha dog training techniques, if you haven't already.
2. To greet people. Dogs identify each other by smelling scent glands around each other's faces. As humans are much taller than dogs, there's nowhere to go but up!
3. Because they have been rewarded for this behavior in the past, whether purposely or unknowingly. Some owners may, at one point or another, allowed the dog to jump on them or on their furniture, welcoming their dog's enthusiasm to see them. Other owners inadvertently reward their dogs jumping, simply by doing something good--such as walking or feeding the dog--right after the dog has jumped. Even if they told off the dog for jumping, by providing the dog with a walk or with food, they make the dog connect these positive actions, with a not-so-positive action: jumping! The dog sees thing in a very simple, linear fashion: if he jumps, he'll get to go for a walk--or even better, he'll get fed!
Top 5 Techniques To Stop Your Dog From Jumping
1. Do not let your dog make a big deal out of your arrival home. In fact, as the alpha leader of your family's "pack", you shouldn't even greet him or her for at least 15 minutes. If your dog jumps around and pesters you before that, squirt him with water pistol or shake a can filled with pebbles. This will startle him, and if done on a regular basis, calm him whenever you get home. He won't make such a big deal of your arrival, and thus learn that he can greet you without jumping. Follow the same technique for any visitors to your home. Do not introduce the dog to your visitors until after 15 minutes or longer.2. Greet your dog on his level! In addition to waiting to greet your dog, you should also greet him in a stooped position, so that he doesn't have to jump up to greet you. Additionally, if you wish to pet or cuddle your dog, do so on his level. This removes the need to jump at any time. PRAISE HIM for not jumping. If he jumps, use the "Off" command until he stops.
3. Avoid rough play with your dog. This means no tug of war or wrestling games. These types of activities only encourage your dog to jump, and make him think it is perfectly acceptable ALL the time. It will also lead to aggressive behavior such as biting and unprompted attacks, so make sure to avoid overzealous play!
4. Use the "Sit" command. This is one of the most basic, and important, commands. As such, if your dog is well trained, he will respond to the Sit command before even thinking to jump. If he does not respond well to the Sit command, then more training is necessary, as this is the foundation for dog obedience training. Train him until he responds to it in everyday situations, such as greeting and going for walks. The better he understands the Sit command, the much less likely he is to ever jump at all.
5. Finally, teach the very necessary "Off" command.
Teaching Your Dog the "Off" Command
Ideally, this command should be taught immediately from the time your dog is a pup just brought from home. If not taught early, it will be MUCH more difficult to teach your dog, later.1. When the puppy or older dog jumps (whether on a person or furniture), immediately say OFF.
2. Make an open-mouthed snarl without noise, but with your teeth quite visible. This way, you're talking a dog's language, one he will surely understand! This is a natural signal used by adult dogs to their puppies to calm down. Ensure you make direct eye contact.
3. Repeat this command several times, until your dog doesnt need to be told twice. Praise immediately when he stops himself from jumping.
Make sure other family members and visitors understand this command, as well. It is crucial that your dog understand that all family and visitors are above his rank in the pack. Otherwise, he will lash out and try to assert himself on everyone. While using the Off command may not be appreciated by most visitors, but it is more important that a dog has a good greeting manner with all people. A little effort on everyone's side makes your dog disciplined and docile.
Different Ways To Train a Working Dog
There is a world of information on how to train your puppy to do various things, and sometimes a hundred ways to train your puppy to do one particular thing. The thing is, not every puppy is the same and each method will work differently on various dogs. I find the best way to get my puppy to do anything is positive reinforcement. Using "shake cans" and "whimpering like a pup" when he bites me doesn't do zilch.
My puppy is a very stubborn puppy. He doesn't like to listen. He is a stubborn breed but I am not giving up on him. I need a mountain load of patience to deal with him but I can make it easier on myself and him. By trial and error, I realize some things work and others don't. Why is he barking? It is probably because he needs stimulation or needs to go pee. There is no use at yelling at him. Why is he biting me? He probably is teething and will teethe anything. It won't help to tell him "no" because the urge to teethe is far stronger than the aroma of a little dog treat. So I came up with my own solutions.
I got Benji to pee/poo outside by positive reinforcement. Now, most of the time, when he needs to pee, he will look up at me or wait by the front door. When he finishes doing his business, I make sure to praise him lavishly...even if it is just a little squirt of pee. The fact he went outside and not in the house is tantamount and extremely important. He is proud of his deed and looks forward to receiving praise for pee/poo.
I have been unsuccessful in getting Benji to stop biting me, house members and guests using: clap, cradle and hold muzzle and "no", shake can, confinement, and whimper like puppy and walk away methods. I have instead looked him in the eye and said a firm "no" then give him a frozen toy to gnaw on. I only give him the frozen toy to gnaw on as a special "praise/treat" for refraining from biting me. Now, he is biting less and less and will gnaw on his frozen toy. I put the toy away when he is not gnawing it. If he bites me again, I start all over by staring, saying "no" and giving him a frozen toy to gnaw him (to soothe his gums). Hopefully he learns to chew on toys when teething and not people.
Benji needs extensive training. His attention span, like every puppy, is extremely short. He is extremely stubborn, to add, and I am an impatient trainer. I am spending hours learning through books and videos how to train him and things NOT to do so I don't raise a puppy who will have bad habits, aggression, etc later on in life. The good news is, I was able to leave him for 15 minutes without him barking while crated in the house. This is a huge step!
My puppy is a very stubborn puppy. He doesn't like to listen. He is a stubborn breed but I am not giving up on him. I need a mountain load of patience to deal with him but I can make it easier on myself and him. By trial and error, I realize some things work and others don't. Why is he barking? It is probably because he needs stimulation or needs to go pee. There is no use at yelling at him. Why is he biting me? He probably is teething and will teethe anything. It won't help to tell him "no" because the urge to teethe is far stronger than the aroma of a little dog treat. So I came up with my own solutions.
I got Benji to pee/poo outside by positive reinforcement. Now, most of the time, when he needs to pee, he will look up at me or wait by the front door. When he finishes doing his business, I make sure to praise him lavishly...even if it is just a little squirt of pee. The fact he went outside and not in the house is tantamount and extremely important. He is proud of his deed and looks forward to receiving praise for pee/poo.
I have been unsuccessful in getting Benji to stop biting me, house members and guests using: clap, cradle and hold muzzle and "no", shake can, confinement, and whimper like puppy and walk away methods. I have instead looked him in the eye and said a firm "no" then give him a frozen toy to gnaw on. I only give him the frozen toy to gnaw on as a special "praise/treat" for refraining from biting me. Now, he is biting less and less and will gnaw on his frozen toy. I put the toy away when he is not gnawing it. If he bites me again, I start all over by staring, saying "no" and giving him a frozen toy to gnaw him (to soothe his gums). Hopefully he learns to chew on toys when teething and not people.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
AGILITY ANGEL DOGS
Best of all, every other kind of training leads up to become beneficial for Agility--obedience, off-leash, etc. Teaching him "sit" "come" "down" will help him with his agility, apparently. He is too young for agility now--he needs all his shots but that doesn't mean I can't "pretrain" him at home with a baby's tunnel, etc. It will help him become familiar with it. I hope he has the right personality for agility. Agility will make a well trained dog out of him!
Dog agility is a dog sport in which a handler directs a dog through an obstacle course in a race for both time and accuracy. Dogs run off-leash with no food or toys as incentives, and the handler can touch neither dog nor obstacles.[1][2][3][4][5] Consequently the handler's controls are limited to voice, movement, and various body signals, requiring exceptional training of the animal and coordination of the handler.
In its simplest form, an agility course consists of a set of standard obstacles, laid out by an agility judge in a design of his or her own choosing on a roughly 100 by 100-foot (30 by 30 m) area, with numbers indicating the order in which the dog must complete the obstacles.
Courses are complicated enough that a dog could not complete them correctly without human direction. In competition, the handler must assess the course, decide on handling strategies, and direct the dog through the course, with precision and speed equally important. Many strategies exist to compensate for the inherent difference in human and dog speeds and the strengths and weaknesses of the various dogs and handlers.
Apartment Living for Big Dogs
There is a great debate about large dogs living in apartments. Some people are against it, some people are for it. The truth is, some larger dog breeds are content with staying home and biting a Kong toy by the TV. Some dogs are far more energetic and need more than a daily walk. Like Benji, a working-dog breed.
I know dogs are adaptable and Benji can adapt to apartment living. Where his masters are, he is happy. We have about 700 square feet and a backyard and we are close to 5 parks. Additionally, we are two active young adults so Benji will be spending the summers hiking, camping up North, swimming and going on long walks in the City. I can certainly imagine he will be tired out! Further more, perhaps a day when I will not be home all day he can be in a Doggy Daycare and/or I can hire a dogwalker. Benji is going to be a very energetic dog and he is going to be a big dog, but if he can be active outside he can relax inside with a favourite toy.
If he is still very unruly I will have to put him in agility or some other "job" for working dogs, if "fetch" won't do. I don't think I can ever trust him alone in the house. He will likely ruin something that we would have to pay for. He would have to be crated. He would eat the walls, the tables--everything if we aren't watching. But he would likely eat the walls in a house too if left alone! If we are going anywhere--work or school or to a social outing--Benji would need adequate exercise beforehand so when he is home he is already tired out. I can't wait until he gets his shots so he can go for a walk and get tired out side!
I know dogs are adaptable and Benji can adapt to apartment living. Where his masters are, he is happy. We have about 700 square feet and a backyard and we are close to 5 parks. Additionally, we are two active young adults so Benji will be spending the summers hiking, camping up North, swimming and going on long walks in the City. I can certainly imagine he will be tired out! Further more, perhaps a day when I will not be home all day he can be in a Doggy Daycare and/or I can hire a dogwalker. Benji is going to be a very energetic dog and he is going to be a big dog, but if he can be active outside he can relax inside with a favourite toy.
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| BENJI IN THE BACKYARD |
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| BENJI EXPLORING THE SNOW |
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| CHEWING HIS FAVOURITE DUCK TOY |
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Every Dog Gets Tired
Our friends came to hang out and brought their French bulldog, D, and Benji played and ran around with him for hours creating a very obedient and exhausted pup. Not only that, but he has gotten into the habit of (sometimes) scratching at the front door when he needs to go out to the bathroom before going in the house. This cue really helps me realize when he needs to go but we generally follow the rule of after every meal, 15 minutes after water, after every nap and playtime.
I have begun to use the 'shake can' which really scares him. I think the first step is understanding the dog before applying all this stuff that will only confuse him. I just want to understand why Benji is doing an action that displeases me before I decide how to deal with it. Why is he chewing the coffee table leg? Why is he peeing in the kitchen? Why does he try to jump up on the sofa? I know getting him tuckered out really helps immensely with dealing with him every day. When he is tired, he is just so much more of a joy to be around!
Stubborn Dog--How to Train Them
Obedience becomes a dominance struggle between the two of you. Once you have given the command, you must make the dog obey the command or he has won. If he wins, getting him to obey the next time will be even harder. These dogs need persistence, insistence, consistence and patience in training.
- Working with a stubborn dog will require you to use a shake can frequently. You can make a loud, yet easy-to-handle shake can with a soda pop can and 10-12 pennies. After inserting the pennies, tape the opening closed. You may have to keep one of these in every room you allow your dog. When the can is shaken, it must be done loudly and be accompanied by a loud and firm “NO.” When he quits what he is doing, praise him vigorously.
- Using jerk and release will be very important for these dogs. When they just indicate they are about to do something other than what they are supposed to be doing, give them a quick jerk and release and say firmly “NO” then use a jerk and release along with the command for what they are supposed to be doing. Once the dog is corrected, praise him lavishly for complying.
Always use a firm and robust voice. Your words, tone of voice, and body language must be authoritative and never tentative, tired, distracted or questioning. Always look directly at the dog when correcting him and always look directly at him when praising him. Always praise him when he does the right thing.
It is difficult to categorize dog breeds into Stubborn Dog Breeds. Labrador and Golden Retrievers are typically friendly dogs, but, abuse and malhandling can turn a well-behaved Lab puppy into an aggressive, stubborn dog.
Again, BloodHounds are typically stubborn in nature. But, proper handling and consistent training can turn even an aggressive BloodHounds into an obedient pet.
Effectively Train Your Dog Does your dog bark too much? To get the help you need to train and care for your dog, Subscribe to the FREE Dog Course. Learn the Commands to Obedience train your dog and Control his bad habits like barking and biting. Get the secrets to Housetraining and Feeding your dog and much more when you have the course delivered to your email Inbox for FREE.
Most stubborn dog breeds are also averse to and may show some resistance in potty training. Successful potty training sessions require knowledge of how to deal with Difficult-to-Housebreak Dogs. Patients, Persistence and Consistency is the key to succesfully training these dog breeds.
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